Friday, October 30, 2009

Stories from Morogoro

So I thought I would quickly share some random recent events in Morogoro. This includes getting sick which is one of the not-so-cool things about living in Morogoro (that way you’re not all too jealous)! ;) As I am writing this I have a cold. Which is pretty understandable considering I high-five about twenty kids a day some of whom have snotty noses and no amount of hand sanitizer seems to be able to save me. Of course that is not the worst, after my last “mysterious African sickness” I also have experienced another random illness. About a week ago I woke up at 3am feeling nauseous. I ended up throwing up (in the bucket that now stays in our room) and fell back asleep. The next morning I woke up feeling perfectly fine but it’s definitely unpleasant. Fortunately though my homestay family, all of the YCI staff and my fellow volunteers have been really great helping me when I get sick, checking in on me for regularly for several days afterwards and offering to take me to the hospital.
One cute story, I also had one night where I couldn’t sleep because I had a cup of coffee at 4pm (their coffee is definitely stronger here). Around 4:00am I decided that since I was awake I would go outside, read my book and watch the sunrise. (I think I was expecting some sort of magical Lion King moment which definitely didn’t happen, but the sky changing colours was still very pretty!) So my family regularly wakes up at 4:30am to start their daily activities and was shocked to see me awake. They were immediately so concerned and wouldn’t believe me that I couldn’t sleep because of the coffee. They were convinced that there was some problem that I wasn’t tell them about and Paulo even phoned Godfrey to see if I’d mentioned to him if anything was wrong. Somehow Gasto, the Tanzanian volunteer that we work with here, heard that I had malaria and I got a very concerned phone call from him asking if I was alright. It was very sweet and I felt bad for causing everyone so much worry.
Another story is from when I was walking home the other day. Usually when we walk around we got a ton of people yelling “mzungu” and “mwenda” so we’re pretty used to it. This day though I had a guy come up and start walking with me as I was going home for lunch. He asked my name and where I was from and immediately said that I couldn’t possibly be from Canada because “there’s no one named Melissa in Canada” don’t I know. He then started quizzing me on the capital of Canada and the prime minister’s name as if he could catch me in my lie! It was quite funny actually. Then when he learned I’m a science student started asking me questions about Newton and Einstein. Meanwhile another guy started walking with us who was a lot more annoying. He immediately started asking me if I had a boyfriend in Canada, telling me that I can’t trust him because he must be lying to me. He told me that Africa is my real home and that I need to start having African children. He was also pushing me to give him my contact information (when I lied and told him I didn’t have a phone he tried to get me to give him the contact information of one of my friends in Canada….don’t worry I didn’t give him any!). Finally he told me that as long as he could “get a white girl” then his life would be good. It didn’t matter if she was from Belgium or Canada that he just needed a white girl. This was when I lost patience and told him that I was not that girl and that he and the other guy had to leave me alone.
Fortunately this by no means represents your average Tanzanian who really is just interested in how we are doing and welcomes us to Tanzania. This guy was just an extreme like any pushy guy back home. We were told by Micah to expect some of this and just to be very blunt that we are not interested. So far this seems to have worked because I haven’t seen him since and have definitely not let this one experience affect my view of Tanzanians as a whole. Really now I just share this story because I find it quite humorous. Unfortunately I'm running out of time at the internet cafe so I've got to go but I hope to give you all an update of my programming soon. Also some of the volunteers are going on a safari to Mikumi Park next weekend so expect an update about that as well!
I love my e-mails from home so keep them coming!
Love from Moro,
Melissa

Trip to Zanzibar

This weekend Nicole and I went to Zanzibar to visit Evan, Tyler and Stephanie, the YCI volunteers in Zanzibar. We left Morogoro at 6am and took the bus to Dar es Salaam. The bus station was chaos in the morning. Two bus companies were competing for customers by honking and revving their engines. Once we got to Dar es Salaam we took a taxi to the Zanzibar ferry port and took a fast ferry to Zanzibar. The ferries take about 2 hours to get to Zanzibar and sea-sickness is pretty common because of the speed and choppy water. I was pretty happy that I didn’t get sick but I did take Gravol before leaving.
We had to go through immigration in Zanzibar because they like to pretend like they are their own country (more stamps on my passport!) The volunteers met us at the ferry port and we checked into the Jambo Guesthouse in Stonetown and proceeded to wander around. Stonetown is amazing, lots of narrow alleys with high buildings all very old and beautiful. Some of the doors are very ornate and we learned that there are three different kinds of doors Arab, Swahili and Indian doors. Some of the doors have spikes on them so young elephants don’t break through the doors. Poor elephants!
That night we went for the nicest dinner I’ve had since leaving Canada. Amore Mio is an Italian restaurant right on the beach so we got to watch the sunset while eating pasta and ice cream. Zanzibar is definitely more touristy than Morogoro and that was a little weird to get used to. Especially at Amore Mio all of the customers were mzungu tourists. While in Morogoro, my Swahili is very limited and really only good for basic greetings and simple conversation, in Zanzibar I kept getting complimented on my Swahili and I think this is because they are more used to tourists who come and don’t try to learn the local language.
Saturday we went to Kizimkazi to swim with the dolphins. We took a boat out into the open ocean and search until we found a pod of dolphins. We had our snorkel gear on so we would pull up next to the dolphins and jump in and swim with them. The first time I jumped in they were all around me and below me, it was an amazing experience! I really loved that this wasn’t some aquarium where the dolphins are trained to interact with people, these were wild dolphins and just got to hang out with them for about an hour as they lived their lives. Definitely one of the coolest things I’ve ever done!
After that we had lunch at the beach where they fed us tuna, rice, vegetables, fruit and chipati and then we relaxed on the beach. At one point I went for a walk along the beach and shouldn’t believe how beautiful the beach was. The sand is so white and the water is a beautiful blue-green. I couldn’t believe how lucky I was to be able to see this. After lunch we went to Jozani Forest to see the monkeys. It was very neat there were so many monkeys in the trees all jumping around, cleaning each other. I even got a picture of two monkeys on a tree doing “the jiggy-jiggy” as our Tanzanian tour guide explained it. We also walked amongst the mango tree swamp which was very beautiful
That night we went to the Forodhani night market where there are all sorts of tables set up with different chefs serving different food. We had sugar cane juice (so sweet!) and Zanzibar pizza (which is delicious!) as well as some seafood skewers. I tried barracuda, lobster and octopus, all of which were quite good. One downside to there being so many tourists in Zanzibar is that you constantly get harassed by beachboys who come up and try to sell you things (usually for an elevated price). You also have to worry more about pickpockets (Stephanie had her camera stolen during one of her first weeks in Zanzibar).
The next day the Zanzibar volunteers had programming (although Steph had to miss it because she was feeling sick and went to the doctor, fortunately she tested negative for malaria and is now on antibiotics). Nicole and I spent the morning at a beautiful beach and then joined the others for lunch. Then we wandered around Stonetown doing some souvenir shopping (a much wider selection than in Morogoro). That night we went to the volunteer’s homestay for dinner and met their family. I couldn’t believe how nice their house is! It’s about the same size as my house in Canada, has two stories, tile floors, a shower, a washing machine, HBO! It’s a much nicer house than volunteers typically stay in but the family is so welcoming and good to the volunteers that all volunteers that have stayed there have a great experience. We watched TV and then sat down to dinner and had a good conversation. The next day we took the first ferry home with Micah as she is spending this week in Morogoro.
I had a really great time in Zanzibar. It is very beautiful and is definitely somewhere I would enjoy visiting again. Although, for my own sanity, I have come to love Morogoro and am happy to be living here (otherwise I would be jealous of the Zanzibar volunteers and their beaches and giant house). Honestly I feel like I am really living the Tanzanian experience and my homestay family has been so accommodating, welcoming and kind to me that I really couldn’t ask for better. Working with Makho and Godfrey has been great! Both are very kind and do their best to take care of us and make us feel comfortable. Morogoro is also very beautiful and as I walk towards town every morning with the mountain in front of me I still get struck by this idea of “I can’t believe this is where I live!”

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Random Tanzania tid-bits

I re-read some old posts and realised that there have been some things I've failed to explain so I thought I do a little of that.

Daladala-we often walk to and from programming (none of us have quite worked up the courage to rent a bike because traffic here is CRAZY!!! There are no apparent rules or traffic signs and they drive on the left-side of the road) but for longer trips or if we're carrying the big 12L bottles of water that we drink (you need to drink either bottled water or boiled water here) we take a daladala.

There are two daladala stations in Morogoro. A daladala is basically a 12-passenger van that is usually crammed with over 20 people. They often are in pretty terrible condition (we rode in one yesterday that didn't want to start until a bunch of guys started pushing it) and are covered with slogans and pictures. Fortunately they only cost 250 tanzanian shillings (TSh) (about 25 cents Canadian) so it's way cheaper than a taxi. There are no designated stops so you just wave one down on the side of the road and tell the driver when you want to get off. (Shusha means STOP!) So far I haven't seen any other mzungu on the daladala so I'm pretty pleased that we've all figured out how to navigate around Morogoro like the local Tanzanians.

Mzungu-This technically translates to foreigner. At first I thought it was used as some kind of discrimination but YCI staff assured us that this is not the case. It is simply used as a form of greeting when they don't know our names. Often little kids or people on the road yell out "Mzungu!" as we walk past. Acutally everyday we go into town there's one stretch where about 10 kids all come running over for fist pumps (Nipe tano!-High Five!) They also like to call out 'Mwenda' which we've been told is a common name for women here as a kind of joke because we're so obviously not from here.

Fun fact!: squat toilets are the perfect hiding place for cockroaches, lizards and mosquitoes so that's always a lovely surprise when I use the bathroom.
Bucket showers, despite being quite cold, aren't too bad although the first thing I'm doing upon leaving Tanzania is taking a nice warm shower!

Also everyone, please hug your washing machine today! Hand laundry, although certainly doable, is quite a pain, especially because I can never seem to get it right. Mama Paolo keeps coming over and helping me (which makes me feel quite pathetic). Although I know I'm trying hard because I actually rubbed the skin off of my knuckles!

I had a problem in the beginning of feeling useless in programming. Godfrey has to translate for my English class and when we do pre and post surveys at outreach events and I often felt like things would be more effective if he just worked alone. Fortunately as more of our programming is starting (we've had a delay because students are in exams) and as our roles become better defined and we get more comfortable in them I haven't felt as useless. Despite coming here with the understanding that I would be getting far more out of this experience than I could possible give in terms of helping the problems of HIV and gender in Tanzania, I still came with the hope of being able to contribute to YCI's programming and playing a small part in a much larger picture. I'm only now starting to feel like a will be able to play that part so that is also making my time here easier.

I had the pleasure of logging on a finding 4 facebook messages and 3 e-mails from home so that definitely made my day! I love you all and hope everyone will keep messaging as I think of you all often.
Love
Melissa

Great weekend in Morogoro

So I searched yesterday for a USB cord for my camera but apparently they aren't sold in Morogoro and I'll have to wait until I get home to put up pictures.

On Friday I woke up and had a good feeling about the day. That was topped off by a surprise phone call from the bf back home so I was already in a good mood and the weekend just kept getting better.

We went to the Faraja office to meet with Godfrey and had to wait about an hour (we do lots of waiting here, times aren't as strict as they are back home and no one worries too much if they're late so it's been something to get used to). Then we had our weekly meeting at Ricky's (which meant ice cream for lunch!).

Later that day we had our first Ushujaa (HIV outreach talent show) in the Mazimbu area of Morogoro with the theme being Prevention. Makho, the Morogoro program director for YCI, is a really good rapper so him and Habibu from the drama club did a little rap at the beginning. We also got to hear a song that Makho has made about HIV, promoting getting tested. There were so many little kids who just loved to hang out with us. They also had a dance competition for the kids which was really neat. One guy did a Michael Jackson dance to Smooth Criminal which was great! The whole time Makho and Godfrey are being the MCs and talking to the audience about HIV prevention including the ABC's of HIV prevention (abstinence, being faithful and condom use). Meanwhile we went around handing out condoms to the teens and adults and did some condom demonstrations. We had over 200 male and female condoms and we ran out and had to tell people that we didn't have anymore. Nicole also participated in one of the drama clubs skits on condoms and I presented facts about HIV in Canada which Godfrey translated (apparently it's really interesting for people to learn that there isn't just HIV in Africa). The day was so much fun and it really felt like we were getting involved.

Yesterday we went souvenir shopping. Paul showed Nicole and I some of the good shops and helped us make sure we didn't get too ripped off by paying the "mzungu price". Then we shopped for supplies for that night. We had decided to make a Canadian dinner for our homestay family and the YCI staff. We had limited access to the same ingredients we have at home so we decided to make pancakes with maple syrup (Godfrey had been given some by a friend which he donated), nutella, jam and a bunch of fruit. Nicole also had maple syrup candies that she passed out for dessert. The dinner actually turned out quite well although it took us a while to make enough for everyone. They all seemed to enjoy it though and it was a nice change for us. (Eating ugali or rice for every meal gets old pretty quickly especially since ugali has zero flavour despite looking like mashed potatoes....it's a very deceptive dish that Nicole and I hope to eat as little as possible).

Today is more of a work day. I'm at the YCI office right now in Faraja starting to work on planning the next couple of weeks and then I plan on splurging and buying a latte from Rickys and enjoying my book. (I'm reading like crazy here, I've already finished East of Eden-Steinbeck and Life Before Man-Atwood so I'm lucky there's a stack of books at the YCI office).

Love from Moro!
Melissa

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Definitely not "vomit free since '93"!

So I forgot the cord to connect my camera to the computer so I will try to post pictures once I kind find one here in Morogoro.

Friday we had our weekly meeting at Ricky's (a cafe with Western style food) so Michael, Nicole and I went a little nuts and had stir fry and ice cream for lunch! It was really good! :)

On Saturday we went with the drama group to do an HIV/AIDS outreach presentation in Kiloka (a rural part of Morogoro). Our job was to do a pre and post survey to see if people at the event learned anything about HIV from the presentation. The best part for me was the ride in and out. The view was absolutely gorgeous!!!

Sunday we all went for a swim at the Morogoro hotel and enjoyed our day off (not that the days here are super busy but it was still really nice). Unfortunately about half way through the day I started to feel sick. On the way home we'd just stepped off the daladala when I threw up into a pile of garbage. I felt nauseous and dizzy for the rest of the night and the next day. Fortunately yesterday I was able to just sleep, rest and read for most of the day and I started to feel better and then I woke up Tuesday morning feeling much better! I didn't have a fever so it wasn't malaria but as Micah put it, it's just one of those strange african sicknesses.

More unpleasant news, Michael had his room broken into a few days ago. They cut the wire over his window, reached in and stole everything he had on his table including his medication, books and laptop. There's still a chance he might get his stuff back so everyone's keeping their fingers crossed. Both Michael and Nicole and my homestay families were so upset that this had happened and they and the YCI staff have been great about doing everything that they can. It sucks too because all three of us have been really good about always locking our doors (with so many friends and neighbours in and out all the time it's easy for stuff to go missing) but you don't think about things like not keeping stuff next to windows until something like this happens. Fortunately for Nicole and I our room is more secure because our window faces into the family courtyard and the only thing next to our window is our bed so we would definitely wake up if someone tried to get in!

Nicky, the grandson of our Mama is over at the house all the time and is definitely the best part of Tanzania! He is six and is full of beans! Yesterday he took both mine and Nicole's glasses and was wearing them both! He's also always hamming it up for photos and loves taking pictures of other people.

Keep the e-mails coming as I love reading about what's going on back home!
Time to walk back to my homestay for lunch and then English class tonight!
Love from Moro!!!!
Melissa

Monday, October 5, 2009

The best part of Tanzania!

The best part about living in Tanzania is the people. Generally the Tanzanians that we have met have been very warm, welcoming and friendly. Everytime we leave our house we are greeted by people on the roads. Kids coming running out to yell “Mambo” (What’s up?) or “How are you?” It’s very cute because if you answer they don’t actually understand but it seems to be the only thing they know in English so they continue to chant it over and over. So far we saw two kids wearing Montreal Canadian shirts and one Toronto Maple Leafs shirt so I’m keeping an eye out for that Vancouver Canucks shirt that just has to be out here!
Our family has been really sweet and, although most of them don’t speak English, have been trying their best to make us comfortable and to look out for us. It took us awhile to convince them that we don’t need to eat first by ourselves, that we actually prefer to eat with the family. They often insist on not letting us help but we have been trying to be more involved in the clean-up after meals. They helped us do our laundry on Sunday and apparently the image of two mzungu doing their laundry by hand is hilarious because they all seemed to get quite a kick out of it! Mama Paul (here the Mama’s names are that of one of their children) is very good to us and is regularly asking us what we want to eat and making sure we shower, lock our door and are generally comfortable. Paul is away for a few days at a conference but he made sure before he left that we remembered to always lock our door (with so many people, friends and neighbours by all the time it is easy for volunteers to have their stuff stolen which makes the host family feel terrible), not to go out alone at night and to make sure to call him at anytime if we need anything. Since Paul has been away we’ve been trying to communicate more with the other members of the family and it seems to be going well.
Sunday night was one of my favourite nights here by far. During the day Michael, Nicole and I went into town to work at the YCI office to prepare our programming for the week. Once we got home we decided to take the soccer ball I brought out (Sam, are you reading this??? I hope to have more stories for you before I donate it to YCI for their playdays) so we kicked the ball around the street with some of the local kids (and some of the local adults too). The best part for me was when I brought my camera out to get a video of one of the soccer players juggling the ball and Nicky (grandson of our Mama and Baba who sometimes stays at the house) was fascinated with the camera! It only took him a few minutes to figure out how to take a picture, review it, scroll through pictures and then take more. He was so excited to take a picture of someone and then run up to them to show them the picture he had taken. I have a few pictures he took with his fingers in the way that are really cute. Then later that night Nicole and I sat out with Mama and Nicky and she taught us some Kiswahili with Nicky helping to translate. He and I did cartwheels (mine weren’t so much cartwheels but they made him laugh) and it was a lot of fun.
It’s crazy that I already have less than 7 weeks left. We’re currently planning our safari with the Zanzi volunteers to Mikumi National Park and then our trip to Zanzibar two weeks later.
Before I forget…Happy Birthday Colin, Loren, David, Luke, Steven and all other October birthdays!!!
Love from Morogoro!

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Life in Morogoro

Habari za Mchana (Good afternoon)
I guess the 10 hour difference means that its the middle of the night at home.
We've been doing more orientation all week including speaking with Victor from Faraja Trust (one of our partner organizations), and learning about HIV/AIDS and gender in Morogoro. The situation in Tanzania certainly isn't the worst in the world however there is still work to be done concerning the high infant mortality rate, HIV/AIDS and gender equity. The work that YCI does is to provide various programming geared towards youth that helps give them the skills and knowledge they need to become empowered and create real change. All of the staff have great respect for the Tanzanian culture (4 of the 5 are native to Tanzania). The programming is contantly evolving thanks to feedback from the participants and partners and extensive monitoring, evaluating and reporting on our part to ensure our programs are effective.
The programs we're running this phase are Basic, Intermediate and Continuing English and Computer classes focusing on how these relate to Business Communication, assisting Gasto, a very friendly and kind Tanzanian volunteer to teach English at a Faraja school, assisting a secondary school HIV club, running Good Governance workshops encouraging youth to be aware of and get involved in their local government as well as outreach programs like secondary school events and talent shows to promote the theme of HIV/AIDS awareness, testing and decreasing stigma. I'm specifically involved with the three levels of English classes, the HIV club, Good Governance and the outreach programs.
We start work on these pgorams on Monday so I'm very excited to get started!
Tita nanu! (See you!)
Love from Moro!!!

Orientation Week

I've fallen behind on blogging due to a busy Orientation week so I'll post a bunch and try to keep them coming more regularly from now on.

Hello everyone!!!
After 35 hours of flying, lay-overs and getting through Tanzanian customs I finally made it! I met up with Nicole and Michael (the other Morogoro volunteers) and Tyler (one of the Zanzibar volunteers) at the Amsterdam airport. (I got to watch old episodes of HIMYM and the Big Bang Theory on the plane so that helped the time pass quickly!)
We met up with YCI staff at the airport in Dar Es Salaam and they drove us to the Safari Inn. After walking down a sketchy alley (which looked WAY better in the daytime) we met up with Stephanie and Evan (the other Zanzibar volunteers) and the rest of the YCI staff. We spent two nights in Dar. During the day we did training on things like Power and Priviledge, Swahili lessons, Tanzanian culture and how to stay safe and healthy in Morogoro. For the first few days I was worried because I just couldn't seem to get excited. Now I think it was a combination of nerves and jet lag. I just felt like all my emotions were dampened. Now I'm doing much better although I certainly still miss home and all of you!
On Wednesday we said our goodbyes (it's surprising how quickly you bond with people when they're the only ones who understand your language) and we took a bus to Morogoro. The bus was like a greyhound, although more squished and with Jet Li movies playing on the TV. Whenever the bus stopped people would come running up to the side yelling for us to buy whatever they were selling. We got to watch a beautiful sunset on the drive.
By the time we arrived at our homestay family it was dark. Makho and Godfrey (the Morogoro YCI staff, both local Tanzanians) introduced us to each family. Nicole and I are staying with a very nice family and sharing a room (and a bed so hopefully we get along!) and Michael is staying with a family next door.
In our family only the son speaks english but it's been interesting trying to communicate with the mother, father and sisters suing our limited Swahili, gestures, laughter and smiles. They've treated us very well and Nicole and I are trying to convince them to let us help them cook and clean.
Mostly we've been eating fish (samaki) (with heads attached!), rice (wali), ugali (a corn-based doughy mass), spinach and chipsi (french fries which you can buy from local food stands), as well as a variety of fruit. We've been able to convince the family that they don't have to let us eat first so now they put all the food out and all the women eat with their right hand out of the communal bowls (using your left hand is very rude!). I'm also learning to deal with squat toilets, mosquito nets, bucket shows, hand laundry, giant cockroaches, flies and mosquitos although none of these are as bad as I was expecting! (Katie L, I'll resist saying it) ;)
Usiku mwema (Sleep well!)

This is the view from the roof of our hotel in Dar. I'll try to add more pictures later.